I’d served and hit the deck. There was no way I was interfering with his ability to return. I was getting pissed off.The next time the whistle blew,...I’d just powered a ball into the front wall that flew almost to the back wall. The judge ruled it a touch and I lost the serve again.“Jesus Christ!”The whistle blew again.“Technical! Loss of one point.”I couldn’t believe my ears. I pulled into myself and just played to keep from getting a foul called on me. I lost the game by six.“They’ve chosen. No one has more respect for nature than surfers. Out beyond the break, I sat on my board, waiting for Steve. Since Anne shared about her encounter with Steve, I didn't feel much like buddying-up with him, but I put on a good face. "Hey, man. These sets are ridiculous. Any advice, since this is your home wave?" Steve asked. "The sand bar is high here, so kick out and don't dive in. It's so shallow, you'll break your neck. There's one outside. Take it!" Steve paddled and pushed off, dropping. More

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